UPDATE AND ADDENDUM NOTES FOR:

RCC PILOTAGE FOUNDATION

SOUTH ATLANTIC CIRCUIT

 

 PREPARED BY:        CRAIG MOUNTJOY

NEW ZEALAND REGISTERED YACHT “ERASMUS”

 

COVERING PORTS OF BRAZIL SALVADOR, RECIFE, CABADELO AND NATAL

INFORMATION ESTABLISHED DURING A SIX MONTH VISIT FEBRUARY TO AUGUST 2009

 

PAGE NUMBER

PORT

SECTION HEADING

NOTES AND ADDENDUMS

 

 

 

 

P20

Brazil

Formalities

Visas. New Zealand citizens no longer require a visa prior to arrival. Other nationalities should check the latest information on the Brazil embassy website for their country.

90 day extensions to visas. It is only necessary to apply for an extension several working days before expiry of the first 90 days (not 14). A fee of R$ 67 is payable for the extension. The extension is usually applied for at the Federal Police office located at the airport (Salvador and Recife confirmed re this). You must present your yacht ownership papers and all other forms issued to you on arrival, as well as passports and the arrival immigration forms.

Extensions to Temporary Import for the Yacht:

When the additional 90 day visa has been issued you must extend the validity of the temporary import permit issued by the Customs on arrival. This is the form headed “Receita Federal, Termo de Responsibilidade”.  This is done by the Ministerio da Fazenda, Secretaria da Receita Federal. The office is usually found near to the port area.  Take all the relevant ship’s documentation including the passport with extended visa with you.

You may apply for an extension to allow the yacht to stay for up to two years through the same office.

 

P20

Brazil

Gasoline (suggested additional heading)

Gasoline warning: Brazilian petrol (gasoline) has 23% ethanol content. All engines sold in Brazil can cope with this high alcohol content. Engines purchased elsewhere often cannot. Beware of running outboard engines on this fuel unless they are known to be designed for high alcohol fuels. The author is aware of many two stroke o/b engines suffering failed reed valve seals after running on this mix. This fuel also causes a strange reaction with o/b premix oil. The author’s 2.2HP Suzuki 2stroke refused to idle on this fuel but otherwise ran OK other than requiring frequent carburettor cleanouts. Brazilian gasoline does not keep well so should be bought and used in small quantities to ensure it is fresh.

 

P55

RECIFE

General

Pronunciation: Recife is pronounced “(H)essee-fe”.

Known as the Brazilian Venice because of her river’s and bridges, Recife is now the most growing city in the northeast of Brazil.

She’s also the medical centre for the northeast of Brazil and the second biggest medical centre of  South America, just behind Sao Paulo city.

Recife has also the biggest street carnival in the world, called “Galo da Madrugada”.

 

Supermarkets:

The Bom Preco supermarket near the Santa Rita bus station has gone.

 

There are only small minimarkets in the Santo Antonio district.  A good option can be the popular market of Sao José. Good and fresh vegetables, fruits, dried grains, fish and meat can be found there, but must be there early in the morning.

 

The nearest supermarkets of any size are in Boa Vista and Santo Amaro districts.  Boa Vista Shopping is 1km north along Av. Conde de Boa Vista from the Ponte do Coelho. A Bom Preco supermarket and Shopping Tacaruma in Santo Amaro can be reached from any bus running to Rio Doce. In Boa Viagem district there is Carrefour and Hiper Bom Preco.

 

Tourist Sights: Add:

The Igreja (church) da Ordem Terceira de Sao Francisco in Santo Antonio district has a golden chapel which can be viewed by entering the adjacent Sacred Art Museum. This is one of the finest examples of lavishly gold covered Brazilian baroque. Igreja Sao Pedro and Bassilica Nosa Senhora do Carmo in Santo Antonio are also well wortha look for 17th Century colonial Portugeuse interior design.

In Rua Bom Jesus on Bairro do Recife, the first Synagogue in the Americas is now a museum.

Olinda, twin city of Recife and the first occupation from the Portuguese arriving in Pernambuco, also deserves a day for wandering. Notice the several churches spread all over the hills, and the “Sé” (main church of the area) on the top of the hill offering a beautiful view over the landscape and the shore of the region.

Porto Galinhas beach 40 miles south of the city has been voted best beach for the last 5 years and is a good day excursion..

Inland, the city of Caruaru deserves another day excursion for the popular arts craft of good quality.

There are information tourist offices on the “Marco Zero” and on the bus terminal.

Recife Power Supply: Power supply voltages vary from city to city in Brazil. Domestic supply voltage in Recife is 220 Volts, 60 Hz. Tools and appliances sold in the city are 220 Volt.

P56

 

Entry

Correction: Recife Yacht Club is not PIC. PIC refers to Pernambuco Iate Clube.

P56-57

 

Formalities

In July 2009 the entry procedure to Recife was identical whether arriving from a foreign port or from another port in Brazil. First the captain should take ships papers, exit permit from last port, all crew passports and evidence of yellow fever vaccinations, first to the Policia Maritime (a branch of the Policia Federal) for immigration procedures, second to the Receita Federal (customs), thirdly to the ANVISA office (Agencia Nacional de Vigilancia Sanitaria) (health), then finally all documentation must be presented at the Capitania dos Portos.  The Capitania also asked for the skipper’s certificate of competency.  Clearance in can take 5 hours. Outward clearance for domestic departures requires a return visit to the Policia Maritime and to the Capitania dos Portos in that order for “Saida” or exit papers.

 

The location of the offices has changed. The first three offices are located on the waterfront road approximately 1.9 km north of the Marco Zero. The road is named Av. Militar, and is an extension of Av Alfredo Lisboa. (Marco Zero is the praca on Recife Antiga island opposite the 32m tall monument on the breakwater wall, and a major reference point in the city. This is where the ferry from PIC or the monument drops you off.)  Policia Maritime and Recita Federal offices are inside a fenced compound and accessed via an impressive iron revolving security gate. The security guard will need to record details of your passport and will escort you to the correct office.  ANVISA is inside another secure compound about 100m further north on the same road. Just before the fort take the short street to your right.  The Capitania office remains in the white Marinha do Brazil building in Praca do Arsenal on Rua de Sao George, but one block north of the position shown on the drawing in the book.

A map of the Centro area is available from the tourist information office in the building to the south side of Praca Mark Zero.

P57

 

Pernambuco Iate Clube

VHF listening on channel 16. (call Pernambuco iate club, unfortunately normally only in Portuguese)

Ferry: The ferry is unreliable and does not run at all on Mondays and Tuesdays when the club restaurant is closed.

An alternative is to walk 900 m north from PIC along the breakwater road to a landing just beyond the monuments in the Parque des Escultures from where a (licensed) rowing boat ferry will deliver you to the Marco Zero for about R$2 per person. The service operates only from 0700 until 1700, although after 1700 you may be lucky to have a young man “borrow” the dinghy to row you back across to the breakwater.

For a late return to the PIC it may be better to take a bus to Boa Viagem and take a taxi from there. A taxi from Recife Shopping to PIC cost R$16 (mid 2009).

An alternative method of direct access to the market and bus terminal on Santo Antonio is to have the PIC yard staff take you over in your own dinghy and arrange to be picked up at a nominated time. A small tip will be appreciated for this service.

 

A foreshore road has been constructed to connect the root of the breakwater to the beach suburbs of Pina and Boa Viagem.  This provides a convenient and safe route to walk or cycle from PIC or ICR to supermarkets in Boa Viagem although at night a taxi through this area would still be advised. Buses run from a roundabout on this waterfront road in Brasilia Teimosa to various destinations including Recife Shopping where there are over 440 retail shops, cinemas and Hiper supermarkets. There is also a Hiper Bom Preco and a Carrefour in Boa Viagem. These can also be reached from Terminal Santa Rita 2 blocks behind the tug wharf, bus #31.

 

There is no water available on the PIC dinghy pontoon, it must be collected by container from a tap in the yard ashore.

PIC is undergoing a variety of improvements, predicted for the end of 2009 are:

Floating fingers instead of mooring for a total capacity of 60 boats (predicted 20 places by the end of 2009, the predicted fee is R$25.00/day), the rest by the end of 2010)

Water inlet and power supply will be available along with the stay if contracted.

New shower and toilet installations will be at the disposal of the users, predicted for end of 2009.

 

Mooring charges at PIC July 2009 were R$15 per day (irrespective of length) with the first day free.  Fees for the estimated length of stay must be paid up-front in cash.  Extensions to length of stay are simply made by filling out a new application form and paying for a further estimated period. The change to this method of payment up-front was instituted after a French yacht and a German yacht departed without paying. The PIC is obliged to report all arrivals to the Capitania dos Portos.

 

No internet connection is presently available at PIC. But is predicted a Wi-Fi signal will be available about mid 2010.

 

Fuel can be obtained by containers from the fuel station close to a dinghy landing ramp on the Rio Capibaribe north of the first (Giratoria) bridge opposite PIC. This is an operation most conveniently done near high water.

 

The PIC has plans for 60 floating slips with power, water and wifi internet and a reclamation for a commercial boat yard. The timing of construction remains uncertain, however it is hoped that the first marina berths may be available by early 2010.

Small services can already be contracted with Carlos, a Portuguese resident, Naval architect and boatyard owner, member of the PIC. (wood and fibreglass works) Stainless steel works can also be contracted with him.

Sail repairs are also available on demand.

P57

 

Iate Clube do Recife, - information also pertinent to PIC.

This club has an exclusively power boat membership.

The club is located in a suburb named Brasilia Teimosa (Rascal Brasilia is a nickname). A foreshore road has been constructed to connect the root of the breakwater to the beach suburbs of Pina and Boa Viagem.  This provides a convenient and safe route to walk or cycle from PIC or ICR to supermarkets in Boa Vista although at night a taxi through this area would still be advised. Buses run from a roundabout on this waterfront road in Brasilia Teimosa to various destinations including Recife Shopping where there are over 440 retail shops, cinemas and Hiper supermarkets. There is also a Hiper Bom Preco and a Carrefour in Boa Viagem. These can also be reached from Terminal Santa Rita 2 blocks behind the tug wharf, bus #31.

P58

 

Services Available

Note changes to ferry services (PIC).

Many hardware stores carrying items of interest to the yachtsman are located in the area north and east of the Mercado Publico de Sao Jose in Santo Antonio.

The above Mercado has an excellent selection of fresh fruit and vegetables on Thursday to Saturday. Monday to Wednesday only a basic selection is available. Inside the market building meat and fish are sold, also a wide variety of crafts. At the south end of the building is a tourist information office with very good city maps (and an English speaking attendant).  Outside the north end of the Mercado building are public toilets.  The shops to the west side are excellent places to stock up on fresh Brazil nuts (Castinha Para), cashew and peanuts as well as dried fruits, grains and cereals (excellent granola) in bulk.  (Recife and Natal are the best places for Cashew nuts. We could not find bulk nut supplies in Salvador).

P58

 

Transport

Buses in Recife are usually entered by the front door.  From bus Terminal Santa Rita, the bus to Recife Shopping is #31, departing from stop 18A and stopping at platform 1 at Recife Shopping. Return buses (#31 or #41 to Terminal Santa Rita) depart from platform 2 on the opposite side of the car park at Shopping Recife (Rua Bruno Veloso). From platform 2 there is a bus to Brasilia Teimosa. Not all buses marked “Brasilia Teimosa” go all the way to the Terminal Brasilia Teimosa and you may have to alight once the bus turns inland from the coast and walk back to the coast road before turning north towards the breakwater.

From Terminal Santa Rita the bus marked Rio Doce will take you to Olinda. From other stops buses marked Casa Caiada or Jardim Atlantico will also take you to Olinda. At Olinda alight at Praca do Carmo. In this Praca, on the corner of Av. da Liberdade and Rua de Sao Francisco, there is a most helpful tourist information office with excellent maps of this World Heritage town. Although you will no doubt be offered a guide service, if you visit the tourist office first you should not need a guide.

 

Porto Galinhas beach can be reached by taking the bus from a street just west of Terminal Santa Rita, ask at the bus station. Buses leave every 30 minutes each way. Trip time about 2 ¼ hours.

P58

 

Communications

Internet: Most convenient to PIC is the Caravela Cafe which has 4 modern terminals and plug-in wire access (no wifi) available for laptops.  Charge is by the full hour only, at R$3.50 (mid 2009). Caravela is located on the west side of Rua do Bom Jesus on Bairro do Recife (Recife Antiga). It is about 150m from Marco Zero. Almost next door is a per-kilo restaurant.

Wi-Fi can be also befound at a coffee shop in a shopping located just beside the bridge seen in front of the PIC (It’s the building of the old customs recovered and converted into a shopping). Just ask a coffee and the access password.

 

 

 

 

P69

SALVADOR

General

Time Zone: GMT -3. Salvador, as also Maceió, Recife, João Pessoa and Fortaleza, does not have daylight saving time.

 

Useful Phone Numbers:

DELTUR (police station for tourists): (9090)3322-7155

International Telephone Assistance: 0800 703-2100

Airport (9090) 3204-1010

SAMU (ambulance) 192

 

Salvador Power Supply: Power supply voltages vary from city to city in Brazil. Domestic supply voltage in Salvador is 127 Volts (not 110Volts), 60 Hz. Tools and appliances sold in the city are 127 Volt. Marinas usually supply power outlets at both 127 Volts and 220 Volts, often unmarked as to which is which. Take great care to check the outlet voltage before plugging in.

 

Security Issues:

In Salvador one should never wear a watch, even a cheap one, or a ring or carry an obvious wallet bulging in one’s pocket. Any of these items can attract a drug crazed robber. Keep moving purposefully, rather than loitering. The highest robbery risk areas are roads leading from the lower city to the upper city, especially Ladeira da Conceicao behind the church of the same name.  One is advised strongly to never use this route, rather one should always use the elevator for the princely sum of 5 centavos (free during Carnival). There have also been many robberies on the road between Bahia marina and the Port Captain’s office and also in the area between the Lacerda elevator and the Mercado Modelo.  Take care to not shortcut through the open air stalls behind the Mercado Modelo at night, take a street-side footpath route on the inland side of the Mercado in the open under street lights.

 

The air-conditioned bus to and from the airport has been subject to gun-point robberies. In fact no bus is completely safe. Between three and ten buses are robbed at gunpoint every day in Salvador, although with the huge numbers of buses operating every day in this city the odds of being caught up in a robbery are not high.  However the small air-cond bus from the Cidade Alto to the airport is an easy target, and the author and his wife were robbed at gun-point on this bus.  It is much safer and wiser to catch a taxi to and from the airport (and to/from the Rodoviario) if you are carrying anything at all of value, including credit cards and baggage. Cost of taxi from Airport to Terminal Nautico da Bahia or to Pier Salvador, Ribeira (2009) approximately R$70. Taxi from Rodoviario to Terminal Nautico was approx R$ 25.

P71

 

Approach

The ebb tide flow past Pta de Santo Antonio can be considerable and exceed three knots. When the wind opposes, the sea can be nasty.

P71

 

Anchoring and Berthing

The yacht club anchorage just past Ponta Santa de Maria is only suitable in the NE (summer) season.

 

Second into view (not second best choice) is Bahia Marina. The price has now increased to make it the most expensive option.

 

There is now very limited opportunity for anchoring inside the harbour breakwater near the fort. The small boat anchorage is full of moorings, mostly occupied by large tourist schooners. Several of these moorings were available for rent in 2009. Ask other yachts on moorings who to see about renting a mooring.

 

It is possible to anchor outside the fort, giving the fuel barge sufficient clearance to swing and to allow fuelling vessels to manoeuvre. It is not possible to anchor off the end of the marina pontoons in the area in front of the Marinha do Brasil (the long white building). This is a Navy area, a prohibited anchorage.

 

An alternative anchorage is available between the Bahia Marina NE breakwater and the main ship harbour breakwater, approximately in the area where the 3 m sounding is shown on the chartlet. Beware of the rock. From either anchorage you may take the dinghy to the Terminal Nautico marina inner pontoon. The charge for a dinghy is R$4 per day. This charge does not give the right to take water or use the wifi internet.

The fourth option is now probably the best option for most visiting yachts, at least initially. See notes under Terminal Nautico da Bahia.

 

For yachts arriving in the wet season when winds are from the southerly quarter it may be best to anchor temporarily to complete inward clearance and then proceed to a more tranquil marina, such as Pier Salvador in Ribeira suburb. (Refer to comments under heading Centro Nautico da Bahia).

P72

 

Formalities

These are easiest to complete from the Terminal Nautico da Bahia or from the anchorage adjacent, leaving the dinghy in the marina.

The procedure remains as per the update notes on the website submitted by Kent Nyburg.

P72

 

Facilities for Yachts

Particular note should be made here that this South Atlantic Circuit guide only covers the principal marinas and anchorages in central Salvador city. There are other marina options which are covered in the RCC Pilotage Foundation’s Havens and Anchorages and also in local Brazilian publications.

P72-73

 

Bahia Marina

Charges at Feb 2009 were R$2.00 /foot/day. High enough that very few cruising yachts used this marina.

P73

 

Small Boat Anchorage

See comments under Anchoring and Berthing

P73

 

Centro Nautico da Bahia

This facility is operated by a branch of the Bahia state government known as SUDESB. It is now known as Terminal Nautico da Bahia.

The address is now:

Terminal Nautico da Bahia

Avenida da Franca s/n

Commercio

Salvador BA Brazil

CEP 40.010-000

Tel /fax +55 (0)71 3242 4082

(I have not checked the web page)

 

Charges at Feb 2009 R$1.00/foot/day

This is currently the marina of choice for most cruising yachts arriving in the NE season, and the most convenient to the official offices for clearance in and out. It is also very convenient to the Pelourinho (via the elevator) for the tourist sights and Carnival and is on a main bus transport hub giving excellent access to all other parts of the city.

Located behind the first steel pontoon which is used by the tourist ferries and schooners, there are two pontoons for yachts. These are provided with a pair of bow lines tailed to the pontoon for stern-to (or bow-to if you prefer) mooring. You do not need to use your anchor unless your vessel length is far greater than 50 feet.

Staff, with limited exception of the young manager, speak no English.

Electricity pods supply both 220V and 127V from the same pod, usually not marked. Check the voltage before plugging in!

The water on the pontoons is often heavy with silt which can provide good living environment for pathogens. It is not recommended for drinking.

Wifi internet service is available free of charge in the partly covered deck area above the offices and toilets; it can be received onboard only by yachts moored fairly close in.

MB Yacht Services, a yacht assistance business operated by Marcello Brochini that formerly operated from this marina is no longer located in the marina.  This author’s bad experience with non-performance and hefty overcharging by this company was apparently mirrored by the experience of many others and MB Yacht Services’ contract with the marina has now been terminated. As at July 2009 there is no technical assistance available at this marina, although help may be available from chandleries in the vicinity  (try Dumar) and businesses in the Bahia Marina. I would expect this situation to change in due course with the establishment of a new yacht assistance company within the marina compound.

P73

 

Services Available

Fuel:  Obtainable from the fuel station outside Terminal Nautico marina, either take the yacht alongside the rough stone wall at high water, having first checked the depth ,or take containers. However it is far easier and safer to fuel at the fuel barge moored outside Forte de Sao Marcello. Payment by VISA card is accepted. Avoid the late afternoon when the tourist boats are refuelling there. Fuel is also available inside the Bahia Marina.

 

Sail repairs: Vinx Veleria has a very good reputation and do quality work using good UV stabilised thread. They pick up and deliver, and provide a quote and completion date for your acceptance before beginning work. Contact Eduado Costa Tel 3356-5299 Fax 3356-8236. Email: vinx@terra.com.br

 

Stainless Steel (Inox) work: Contact Jutahy. His shop is located near Terminal Nautico in front of Amado restaurant. Tel 3322-8797 or 8837-1217

 

Haul-outs: Bahia Marina has a 40 tonne travelift.

Aratu Iate Clube has a ramp and haulout facilities. Contact Tel 3394-7373

Marina Aratu has a large crane (350 tonne). Contact Simoes Filho Tel 3216-7444

Saviero Clube, Av. Mendes Sa 09, Ribeira Tel 3312-1737 has a haulout ramp, trolleys and cradles suitable for yachts, with a hardstand area. Good technical assistance is available there.

 

Nautical Stores:   There are four main shops in Salvador, all in the Commercio district close to Terminal Nautico.

Regatta: In Bahia Marina, Av. Contorno,1010 Commercio, Tel 3321-3799. A national chain of nautical products. You can view their catalogue on the web, then check the current price.

Dumar: Rua Conceicao da Praia. Close to the Church of Conceicao da Praia, stocks fishing gear, and ropes. Authorised technical assistance of Yamaha engines. English spoken.

Campomar: Rua Manuel Vitorino,14, Commercio Tel 3243-8688 Ropes and chandlery.

Esportimar: Rua Conceicao da Praia, located halfway between the Elevador Lacerda and the Church of Conceicao da Praia. Stocks fishing lures and gear.

Pier Salvador: In Ribeira, Av. Porto de Tanheiros 1704, Pier Salvador has a chandlery offering second hand items including outboard engines, also some lines of new equipment including Brazilian made LED navigation lights. Contact owner/manager Sandoval Matos Tel 3316-1406. Sandoval was formerly a Mechanical Engineer in maintenance of the Petrobras oil refinery and can provide resourcing of technical assistance to yachts berthed in the Pier Salvador Marina. Sandoval speaks English but you must speak slowly.

 

Canvas, vinyls, fabrics of all types, including flooring.  These items and PVC glue, Amazon (rubber contact) glue and accessories can be located in the street running left from the intersection of Rua do Carmo at the foot of the steep descent from Praca Pelourinho. Best access is from Cidade Alto, heading NE from Terreiro de Jesus via Alfredo Brito to Praca Pelourinho, and continue down the hill. Sewing can be done in the same street, but the thread and quality of workmanship may not be tops. No zigzag machines available.

 

Mechanics: Always check the references of any mechanic. The author has only heard negative reports regarding mechanics used by yachts in Salvador in 2009. Sandoval at Pier Salvador could be consulted for advice.

 

Banks: Banco do Brasil is premiere choice for ATM users, accepting VISA, Plus and other foreign cards with no “convenience” surcharge. A large branch is 5 blocks NE along Av. Estados Unidos (second street inland running parallel to the port buildings).

Other good options are Citibank, and adjacent to it but well hidden is HSBC Bank, these are about 6 blocks NE from the marina on the same street but opposite side. Both these banks charge a convenience fee (2009 R$8 per withdrawal). HSBC has a much lower maximum withdrawal limit than the others. These three branches are reasonably secure, but should only be used during daylight hours of the working week when the streets are busy.

 

Shopping Centers: There are many in Salvador. Three that are accessible are Iguatemi Shopping open Mon-Sat 0900 to 2200, Sun 1400-2000, and Shopping Barra, open Mon-Sat 0900 to 2200, Sun 1200-2000, both already listed, and Salvador Shopping. Salvador Shopping is open Mon-Sat 0900 to 2200, Sun 1200-2100, has cinemas with subtitled movies.

 

Supermarkets: There are supermarkets in each of the Shopping Centres, usually Bom Preco.

Closer to the marinas and with good discounts for bulk (unopened carton lots) are the huge Mercantil Rodrigues and Atakarejo. These are side by side on the bus route to the NE about 5 km from Terminal Nautico. Any bus passing through Calcada will be suitable. Catch a bus from foot of the Elevador Lacerda and ask the driver to drop you off there.  You pass the fish market building on your right just before the stop.  Mercantil Rodrigues has the best range, but long check-out queues. Try to avoid shopping there prior to a public holiday or long weekend. Both carry fresh fruit and vegetables and meat. Taxis wait outside and may be more convenient than the bus for the return trip if you have much to carry.

The Bahia State operated Cesta Povo is almost opposite Rodrigues a little back towards the marina and the dirty Sao Joaquim markets are across one more road by the sea opposite the Cesta Povo.  The return bus to the marina stops outside the Sao Joaquim markets. Flag down any Campo Grande bus; although others will also go into Commercio, beware that some may turn off through the tunnel some distance before reaching the marina.

The closest minimarket to the marina is now to be found in Rua Santos Dumont (the 2nd to last street back to the hill from the Terminal Nautico) and to the rear of the Mercado Modelo, close to R Belgica which runs alongside the Mercado Modelo. This tiny shop has a good range including fruit, vegetables and eggs.

A panificadora is to the left of the Elevador. Good fresh baked bread and other goodies daily except Sunday.

Tourist Information:  Tourist offices can be found at the rear of the Mercado Modelo and at the top of the Elevador Lacerda. No English spoken and no information in English as a rule. However, they carry good free maps and, just before Carnival, excellent programme brochures for the many events (mostly free) of Carnival and showing the routes of the three Carnival Parade circuits, although you will need to translate from the Portuguese.

 

Charts, Internet Service, Fax and Copying:

In an arcade in the first block between Av. da Franca and Av. Estados Unidos “Em@is” has suitable equipment for copying charts to A0 size as well as A4 copying. They also supply Brazilian DHN charts, colour prints from electronic files at half the price of those sold by the Capitania dos Portos. Also available are CDs with navigation programmes and electronic charts, GPS receivers, Garmin cards, computer terminals for internet. The owner speaks English and is very helpful. Tel 3242-2271

 

Ice (Gelo): Buy only ice with the makers brand name. Can be bought in small quantities in the Nautical Terminal (where the ferries leave from). Larger quantities, ice bars and ice tubes, can be bought direct from the factory, Gelo Bahia, Estrada da base Naval, s/n, Paripe, a suburb near to Aratu yacht club.

 

Butchery: Good meat is available from the shop adjacent to the service station by the harbour. Further away, the large supermarkets all have butchery departments.

 

Post Office:  A large post office (Correios, yellow signage) can be found on Avenida da Franca, three blocks NE from Terminal Nautico.  There is also a Post Office branch in the rear of Mercado Modelo.

 

Cruising Guides:

An excellent colour printed book on Bahia state coast cruising can be purchased from the manager at Terminal Nautico de Bahia marina. Contains detailed routes with waypoints to many destinations. Recomended.

Other helpful publications may be sourced at “Em@is”.

P73

 

Transport

Buses: Buses in Salvador are generally entered by the rear door, exit by the front door. Fares (tarifa) are displayed on the front window. Destinations and route are displayed front window and alongside the rear door. Cash is accepted and change given.

 

To find the buses from the Cidade Alto, turn right from the top of the Elevador Lacerda.

 

Iguatemi Shopping and the Rodoviario can also be reached by bus from the stop at the foot of the Lacerda Elevator.  From the same stop at the foot of the Elevador Lacerda buses run to Ribeira (for Pier Salvador and other marinas), Calcada (for filters, motor parts, electrical and battery cables and connectors, engineering supplies etc), the bulk discount supermarkets Atakarejo and Mercantil Rodrigues and the Municipal Fish Market and Sao Joaquim fresh markets. Also many other city destinations.

P73

 

Communications

The nearest public Internet access to Terminal Nautico da Bahia is now “Em@is”, located half a block from Terminal Nautico, useful if the marina wifi is not working, or one is anchored out.

 

 

 

 


Map of the Pernambuco beach’s

The Waterfall Route

From Bonito in the interior, 137 kilometers from Recife, a waterfall route to visit seven waterfalls on foot can be reached. Loock for Aronilson Leal Paz who knows the area like the back of his hand, although he is a native of Rio. Bonito with its crystal clear stream set in verdant hills was discovered in 1783 by hunters from Vale do Ipojuca. They called the river Rio Bonito and following it reached the first imposing 70 metre waterfall, O Veu da Noiva, the Bride´s Veil. A good spot for adventure as some people rappel it. You can choose, off course, to walk down a narrow pathway next to which the water fell in a cloud. It takes about 10 minutes to reach the end of the "Veu da Noiva" where the rushing, splashing water, after its violent descent, was suddenly calm and birds can be heard chirping.
Following the sound of the water the next superb waterfall is Pedra Redonda. Here the hydro massage is natural. A small clear lake, dominated by a cascade of water that slowly descends the slope of the hills. Here in the heart of the Brazilian northeast there are five more waterfalls among the valleys and hills at Barra Azul, Banho da Tornada, Mágico, Banho da Corrente, Encanto and Humaitá... - a delightful day’s outing. Nature and life combined to provide a wonderful, unforgettable experience for those who like to travel.

At Primavera, a small town with only 11.000 inhabitants, Cachoeira do Urubu, a spectacular waterfall can be reached also, but that’s for another day’s trip.


1

Teatro Barreto Júnior
Rua Estudante Jeremias Bastos
Fone: (81) 3326.4177

12

Teatro Arraial
Rua da Aurora, 457
Fone: (81) 3221.4990

23

Academia Pernambucana de Letras
Avenida Rui Barbosa, 1596
Fone: (81) 3268.2211

2

Museu da Cidade do Recife
Forte São Tiago das Cinco Pontas
Fone: (81) 3224.8492

13

Museu da Imagem e do Som
Rua da Aurora, 379
Fone: (81) 3231.7820

24

Museu do Homem do Nordeste
Avenida 17 de Agosto, 2187
Fone: (81) 3441.5500 - Ramal: 638

3

Museu do Trem
Av. Rio Capibaribe, 147
Fone: (81) 3455.4333 - Ramal: 249

14

Museu de Arte Moderna Aloísio Magalhães
Rua da Aurora, 265
Fone: (81) 3423.2761 / (81) 3423.3007

25

Casa Museu Magdalena e Gilberto Freyre
Rua dois Irmãos, 320
Fone: (81) 3441.1733

4

Casa da Cultura
Rua Floriano Peixoto
Fone: (81) 3224.6368

15

Cinema São Luís
Rua da Aurora, 175
Fone: (81) 3423.3907 / (81) 3423.8813

26

Espaço Cultural Bandepe
Avenida Rio Branco, 23
Fone: (81) 3224.1110

5

Pátio de São Pedro
São José
Fone: (81) 3224.4592 / (81) 3224.6368

16

Instituto Arqueológico Histórico e Geográfico
Rua do Hospício, 130
Fone: (81) 3222.4952

27

Teatro Hermilo Borba Filho
Cais do Apolo
Fone: (81) 3224.1114

6

Mercado de São José
Praça Dom Vital
Fone: (81) 3424.4681

17

Teatro do Parque
Rua do Hospício, 81
Fone: (81) 3423.6044

28

Teatro Apolo
Rua do Apolo, 121
Fone: (81) 3224.1114

7

Arquivo Público
Rua do Imperador
Fone: (81) 3224.0085 / 3224.9848

18

Mercado da Boa Vista
Rua de Santa Cruz

29

Sinagoga Kahal Zur Israel
Rua do Bom Jesus, 197
Fone: (81) 3224.2128

8

Casa da Cultura
Rua Floriano Peixoto
Fone: (81) 3224.6368

19

Teatro Valdemar de Oliveira
Praça Osvaldo Cruz, 379
Fone: (81) 3222.1200

30

Observatório Cultural Malakoff
Praça do Arsenal
Fone: (81) 3424.8704

9

Capela Dourada
Rua do Imperador

20

Museu-Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand
Propriedade Santos Cosme e Damião
Fone: (81) 3271.2466

31

Forte do Brum
Praça Luso-Brasileira
Fone: (81) 3224.4620

10

Teatro de Santa Isabel
Praça da República
Fone: (81) 3224.1020 / 3224.0005

21

Museu da Abolição
Rua Benfica, 1150
Fone: (81) 3228.3248 / 3228.3011

 

11

Biblioteca Pública Estadual
Rua João Lira, Parque 13 de Maio
Fone: (81) 3423.8446

22

Museu do Estado de Pernambuco
Avenida Rui Barbosa, 660
Fone: (81) 3427.9322

 

The Description of the City Recife,
Pernambuco, Brazil

View of the Borough Recife Antigo "Bairro Recife Antigo" in Recife, Pernambuco, Brazil
Recife is the capital of the Federal State Pernambuco and the biggest city in the northeast of Brazil. Recife is the biggest cultural center of the northeast with services of all kinds, like the health service and the tourism with numerous first-class restaurants. Beside of São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro is Recife the third biggest city of Brazil and one of the trade centers of the country Brazil. Due to its geographical location to Africa and Europe Recife was always one of the entrance portals of South America and Brazil. In former times there was a fleet of commercial ships of the colonial power Portugal. Still today there are enormous harbor facilities which shows the importance of Recife as place of transshipment and commercial town.
 
Nowadays for the airlines Recife is the first station from Europe to South America. Recifes International Airport (Aeroporto dos Guararapes), nonstop approached by many capitals of Europe, is one of the most important starting points for the flight over the Atlantic.
Recife has received her name from shell reefs, which are pre-aged to the coast. Recife extends over 3 islands away. Before occupation by the Dutchmen in the year 1627 there was a labyrinth of sumps and lay islands. Anyone of this islands has its special function. Thus the port and the large commercial centers lie on Santo Antônio, while the public administration takes your seat on the island Recife.
Among the dutchmen there was freedom of religion and the former Street Rua dos Judeus (Street of the Jews) from 1636 - 1654 was the first Jewish community of Recife and Pernambuco. Today the name of this street is Rua do Bom Jesús (Street of the Good Jesus). This formerly Jewish municipality of Recife established the first Synagogue of the both Americas Kahal Zur Israel. The Jews were driven out by the Portuguese and immigrated to North America and settled and founded in New Amsterdam, the today's New York. In the proximity of the Rua do Bom Jesús is the military tower Torre Malakoff, established in the year 1855. Not far of the dock before the place Praça Marco zero they are boat trips in the evening from thursday to saturday. They lead to Barra by the Pina bay, from where one can enjoy a wonderful view of Olinda.

In the quarter Bairro São José is the restored building of the station Estação do Metrô (Terminal station of the Subway)  with the Museu do Trem (Museum of the Train). The Metrô drives from there to the Estação Rodoviaria, to the central bus station of the city Recife, where are arriving and leaving all of the buses to other Cities and States of Brazil. Oppositely is the restored building Casa de Cultura (House of Culture), a former prison built from 1855 to 1857. In the prison cells are numerous shops with beautiful art handicraft of Pernambuco. Recommendable also is a visit to the Mercado de São José (Market of Saint Joseph), a building worth seeing of an old iron construction with a very popular market. Inside the Fort Cinco Pontes (Fort of Five Points) is the state museum Museu do Estado de Pernambuco. At the rectangular place Pátio de São Pedro are the Cathedral São Pedro (Cathedral Saint Peter) from the year 1782 and restored colonial houses with numerous Restaurants, Bistros and Bars. Each Tuesday takes place for free at 20 hours p. m. the Terça Negra (The Black Tuesday), meetings of African culture with live music and dances of Pernambuco. It is very popular and worth to participate these events, because it’s the pure culture of Pernambuco mixed with African Culture. And nothing is commercialized. Nowadays, the place Pátio de São Pedro is probably the most beautiful, the oldest and the best antic restored place in Recife.

It is also worth visiting the church Nossa Senhora do Carmo nearby at the Place "Praça do Carmo”.

In the quarter Bairro Santo Antônio, at the meeting of the rivers of Capibaribe and Beberibe, is the Praça da República (Republic’s Place) with the “Teatro Santa Isabel” (Theatre of Saint Isabel) with its neoclassic front worth seeing and the Law Courts Palacio da Justiça (Palace of the Justice). To the right of it the Capela Dourada. "The Golden Chapel" - it carries its names rightfully - originated in the 17th Century as part of a monastery convent. Their carved altars are completely gilded. Admits less, but not less worth seeing the neighboring cloister with a multiplicity of tile pictures, from portuguese and dutch manufactures of ceramic pictures of the 17th century. In one part of the convent is the Museu Franciscano de Arte Sacra (Museum of Holy Art).

I
n the quarter Boa Vista in the road Rua Aurora located on the river Rio Capibaribe there is an ensemble of restored houses, which show, how it probably looked once here before one hundred years ago.

Between Recife and Olinda, exactly on the city boundary of Recife and Olinda, is located the Centro de Convenções de Pernambuco (Convention Center of Pernambuco), one of the biggest and most modern of Brazil.

In the quarter Boa Viagem in the south from Recife is the beach Praia de Boa Viagem (Beach of the good Journey), which is protected by pre-aged reefs (in portuguese reefs: recifes) against the Atlantic Ocean. Adjacent on Boa Viagem is located the international airport Recife's Aéroporto dos Guararapes. 

The celebrations, holidays and other events are numerous during the whole year. Thus the New Year begins at the beach "Praia de Boa Viagem" and in "Recife Antigo". The "Carnival of Recife and Olinda" begins already many weeks before in December with innumerable balls and removals, very recommandable. In Recife, the Carnival festivities begin in December, as locals begin preparing for the official Carnival, which starts the week before Ash Wednesday. The pre-Carnival parties usually consist of percussion groups practicing in local clubs, city streets and squares, and even Carnival balls. There are a variety of rhythms from native Indian and African Maracatu beats to Frevo and samba. Carnival officially starts with the Galo da Madrugada, a party in downtown Recife attracting over 1 million costumed partiers!

High point is however the Carnival in Recife center and particularly the famous Carnival of Olinda. Even for the Brazilians the Carnival of Olinda is the best Carnival of Brazil, because he’s the most authentic, most popular and less commercialized Carnival of Brazil, it’s a pure Street carnival.

The opening of the carnival with the “Galo da Madrugada” is the biggest street carnival, with over 1 million people on the street, registered in the Guinness book of records.  

In the week before Eastern there are then the passion plays "Paixão de Cristo", (Passion of Jesus Christ) in Nova Jerusalem (New  Jerusalem), 200 kilometers from Recife. In May and June there are the June celebrations with the dance Forró, which takes place at many places of Recife and the interior of the country Pernambuco, particularely the Festival of Saint John, in the City of Caruaru, "São João de Caruaru" (170 kilometers from Recife).

There are independently numerous celebrations of each kind during the whole year. 

The Amparo buses are passing by first from the historic centre of Olinda to the Shopping Center Tacaruna. From there the Amparo buses go to town Recife, more 3 kilometers, making a big circle and returning to the historic centre of Olinda. It is nearly a small City Tour.